Category Archives: Climbing

Dyno from Junior Climbing Nationals (2005)

Found this video as I was looking through my old pictures. In 2005 I was coaching Melissa Main for US Junior Nationals. Melissa places 2nd! Made it into US Junior National team and went on to compete in China in World’s Cup a month later!!!

This is the womens finals route … I decided to play on it and see how many holds I can :)

Melissa won and gave me her Prana hat:

Its pretty sweet, very *very* limited edition :) It was made for the 2005 US National Climbing team to compete in Beijing, China (World Cup).

Klimb Movie Project: Random Footage!

As you might know, I am in the process of making a movie with my friend Johnny Goicoechea.

Climbing is a great passion in our lives! We are fortunate to be able to climb during a week and to escape from the city outside on weekends. There is a very strong local crew of boulderers and a great climbing community. It’s a beautiful thing. I want to capture it all on camera … our everyday life, climbing, training and other things that we do. It’s a movie about bouldering in the North West and it is also a movie about our lives.

Training on gymnastic rings at Stone Gardens (Seattle):

Here is some unedited footage:

And some more (random) footage:

Video from Tumtum (Spokane, WA):

Dancing with friends (at club LO_FI, Seattle):

Much respect to Orbitron and Free (Circle Of Fire / Soul Shifters) … for the Music and dancing clips used in these sample footage videos
(we didn’t shoot this video):

Music from the first two clips: Orbitron, “BBoy Universal” album.

Stay tuned for more clips and actual trailers :)

Campusing Training Videos (Climbing without feet)

Johnny Goicoechea Campusing

Campusing is a climbing exercise or “move” depending on your style :-) where you climb up the wall without using your feet. You don’t have to be able to do this in order to climb — There are plenty of climbers who can climb very hard but can’t even come close to doing what you’re about to see in these videos.

Climbing is not all about power and strength, but it is sure nice to have endless supplies of it!

Continue reading

New Climbing Movie Project!

Highball at GoldbarAs many of you already know my friend Johnny Goicoechea and I are making a climbing movie. We have been going climbing every weekend in areas around Seattle (and further) and capturing the best climbs we can find.

It’s all being shot using a very nice hi-def camera, so 10 years from now when everything is in HD, we’ll look back at it and be glad we did :) The plot of the movie is about us, and is about our training for climbing, using gymnastic rings, campusing and other methods. After showing different exercises, we are showing how they apply in real-world situations.

Continue reading

Sprained Ankle

Bummer! I injured my ankle while climbing at Stone Gardens. They just got done upgrading the floor at the gym – now it has a padded floor. No more rocks. As I came off the wall, my foot got stuck in-between pads and my body pivoted around it. I’ll be on crutches for a week and wear an ancle splint for a month.

Continue reading

The best climbing day of the year

This weekend went to Leavenworth again and I’ve had a really good day of climbing. It was one of those perfect temperature zero-gravity days. I warmed up by ripping a hold off the problem that everyone was trying. Haha. Felt kinda bad about it, since we were all going to do it. Then we went up the hill and I ended up flashing some v8 and also flashing the harder, direct version of it!

Continue reading