People are patiently waiting to watch the open finals…

My best friend Johnny Goicoechea on the first finals problem … killing it!

waiting to go after it …

Sean McCall sends the 3rd finals problem, the crowd goes crazy.

Johnny and Jamie on the last problems

By the way, to rename all of these picture files, I used the following command in windows powershell:

ls | % {$x=1} {Rename-Item $_ -NewName “stone_gardens_sbc2009_$x.jpg”; $x++ }

(if you have windows 7 it comes with powershell, otherwise you can download it for free)

This is the womens finals route … I decided to play on it and see how many holds I can :)

Melissa won and gave me her Prana hat:

Its pretty sweet, very *very* limited edition :) It was made for the 2005 US National Climbing team to compete in Beijing, China (World Cup).

As you might know, I am in the process of making a movie with my friend Johnny Goicoechea.

Climbing is a great passion in our lives! We are fortunate to be able to climb during a week and to escape from the city outside on weekends. There is a very strong local crew of boulderers and a great climbing community. It’s a beautiful thing. I want to capture it all on camera … our everyday life, climbing, training and other things that we do. It’s a movie about bouldering in the North West and it is also a movie about our lives.

Training on gymnastic rings at Stone Gardens (Seattle):

Here is some unedited footage:

And some more (random) footage:

Video from Tumtum (Spokane, WA):

Dancing with friends (at club LO_FI, Seattle):

Much respect to Orbitron and Free (Circle Of Fire / Soul Shifters) … for the Music and dancing clips used in these sample footage videos
(we didn’t shoot this video):

Music from the first two clips: Orbitron, “BBoy Universal” album.

Stay tuned for more clips and actual trailers :)

Campusing is a climbing exercise or “move” depending on your style :-) where you climb up the wall without using your feet. You don’t have to be able to do this in order to climb — There are plenty of climbers who can climb very hard but can’t even come close to doing what you’re about to see in these videos.

Climbing is not all about power and strength, but it is sure nice to have endless supplies of it!

Todd Meyers’ Campusing Workout: We recorded these videos at Wild Walls (Climbing Gym in Spokane) a few years ago. I just found these videos, so I am sharing them.

Warmup Set: Doing one-arms on a campus board, while skipping every other rung

Set 2: Doing one arms on very small (Metolius) rungs, skipping ever other one!

Set 3: One-arm pullups with with 10 pound ankle weights on each leg. Skipping every other rung!

Set 4: More one-arms with ankle weights!

Set 5: Last but not least…

It’s all being shot using a very nice hi-def camera, so 10 years from now when everything is in HD, we’ll look back at it and be glad we did :) The plot of the movie is about us, and is about our training for climbing, using gymnastic rings, campusing and other methods. After showing different exercises, we are showing how they apply in real-world situations.

We’re still in the “shooting” stage capturing new footage, although we have plenty to finish this movie already. The name is to be announced soon. Reply if you have any suggestions … if we end up using it your name will be in the credits.

More Picst: Still Shot Picture Gallery

-Dmitry & Johnny

Here is a list of great food that you should just try to always keep in your fridge:

• Water – get a purifier, or drink hot tea (from real loose leafs)
• Almonds and other nuts
• Spinach
• Broccoli
• Instant unsweetened unflavored oatmeal
• Eggs (get good kind, like freerange & gressfed)
• Turkey, Lean Stake, Tuna and other Fish
• Greens for salad
• Peanut butter (increases testosterone levels)
• Whole grain breads and cereals (instead of white or whole weat)
• Whey protein shakes
• Raspberries and other berries
• Plain Yogurt, Cottage Cheese

Simple Rules

1. Don’t overeat – snack throughout the day. (OK, you already know this :) but are you actually doing it? Are you proactively preparing food for yourself so you can eat it when you’re at work?
   
2. If you missed a dinner — don’t eat one. Have a little snack at night, go to sleep and have a big breakfast when you wake up.
3. Here is a big secret: Eat fruits and nuts for breakfast, (only) carbs for lunch/day, and (only) protein for dinner. Start every meal with a salad. Carbs is the best source of energy, so you need it throughout your day. Protein is needed to repair your body for when you go to sleep. Snacking on nuts (good fat) in the morning gives you a steady long energy levels and keeps your bloodsugar from spiking.
4. Bring your own food (from the list above) to work with you so you can eat it before you get hungry. If you’re feeling hungry, it means your blood sugar has already dropped! You’ll be less productive with your day.
5. Never eat fast food, anything deep fried, processed, foods with lots of ingredients, white flour, lunch meats, nothing with hfcs (high fructose corn syrup), msg. Instead, try to eat the rawest most “first hand” type of energy sources. Plans get energy directly from sun, animals “process” them, we kill the animals and process those etc. The closer you get to the “caveman” way of eating, the better off you’ll be. Read the ingredients and stay away from foods with a lot ingredients. Simpler is easier to digest.
6. Never eat food from someone who prepared it for you in the bad mood, including yourself. I’ve always believed we extract much more then just nutrients from food. There are other things that get transported through food that scientists don’t have a name for. (prov 15:17).
   

I guess its time to get strong on gymnastic rings again!

[update] I did get strong on rings and  now I am climbing way harder! Sweet.

My friend Adam Heley came over from Portland with a bunch of his buddies, including Boone Speed. Johnny (Goicoechea), Lena, Cole, Kyle, and Joel Cambel were already there when I got to L-town. Later on that day we ran into John from EPIC (EWU) program and like 10 other people from Spokane.

I’ve never seen that many monkeys at Leavenworth campgrounds before. Boone took some awesome pictures, Johnny, Cole and Joel went climbing at some new area they recently discovered. We all had fun and partied afterwards at the camp ground. Too bad I had to leave early in the morning to help my friend move.

Design
I’ve considered many different technologies, and I decided to make it into a desktop application that runs on people’s computer instead of my server, because of possible heavvy processing of journal data for graphing and all kinds of liability. So Klimb had the following basic components:

• Hypersonic RDBM Engine
• IzPack Installer (see Klimb reference)
• Java Core, Swing GUI
• JFreeChart graphing library
• Obfiscator Plugin to scramble the source code
• Ant builid scripts
• License-checking module/activator

In about a year after this software was released and I made a little money, I released it under GPL (General Public License) and removed the license-checking code and obfiscation.

Aftermath
I am really glad I did this project, it gave me a chance to improove my Java skills. I got so familiar with Java Swing that I made GUI “by hand”, without any builders or tools. I also discovered many issues people don’t normally think of when they’re writing software, such as license checking, protection against decompilation of byte code, deployment to multiple operating systems, and marketing.

Screenshots

Downloads

• Source Code, from 2/4/2006 (for programmers)
• Klimb Installer (for regular users)

Instructions
After you download the installer, double click on it. If it doesn’t run or Windows thinks its a zip file, it means you don’t have Java installed (JRE, Java Runtime Environment) or JAR-type files are associated with some other program like WinZip. JRE is available for free and you can download it here. Either way, if you just install Sun’s JRE, all of your java software will run faster and Klimb installer will launch on double click. If you do have “java” already installed, I’d replace it with Sun’s version. It will also re-associate JAR files back to JVM.

To be honest, I avoid using Windows as much as I can. I own a couple of really nice Intel Macs and a PC Laptop, that I use primarly for Visual Studio and FreeBSD. So, if you’re on UNIX, or if all else fails, you can launch the installer by typing
[code]
# java -jar InstallKlimb.jar
[/code]
on your terminal.

I hope you enjoy this software, please make post of what you though of it, or about your training experience in general.

Don’t forget to have fun while you train,

-D